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Brill View Drop Down
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  Quote Brill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Creaking Caravan
    Posted: 24 July 2005 at 12:12

 Can anyone give me some advice with a problem that occured with my Lunar Clubman on our last Holiday a week ago. When we pulled off our pitch to come home there was a most horrible Groaning/Creaking noise coming from the caravan. My immediate thought was that I had not released the handbrake properly, but on inspection it was properly released. The noise was not evident when we were under way,  and only reappeared when pulling away and when we were reversing onto our drive at home. My wife who was watching me back seems to think that the noise was coming from the tow hitch, which has an Alko stabiliser on it, could it be this that is making the noise?. I don't think that it is the brakes on the caravan, as there was no loss of power on our towing vehicle, and when we stopped on a couple of occasions, I felt the caravan wheels to see if they were hot, but they were fine.

I would be grateful for any suggestions

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  Quote johnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 July 2005 at 14:13

Hiya brill,

Iwould say that sounds more than likely, your stabelizer that is making the groaning noise's," more so when turning a corner" it will probably be the  small brake pads that may need replacing, or cleaning up. as long as theres plenty of thickness on the pads, then uncouple the the stablizer clean the pads from dust with a file not too much!!then reassemable the stabelizer to the correct torque, and bingo

john
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  Quote johnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 July 2005 at 14:16
brill,  after read ing over your message again  alko stabilizer will be the same i would think , the little pads will probably rewquire renewing
john
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  Quote dionea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2005 at 17:39
It will definetly be the alco, but im very surprised u haven't heard it before.
Make sure theres no paint on the ball iv'e seen customers come in & they have never had the paint cleaned off the ball before using the hitch.
The ball must always be free of grease or other contaminents also.
N.E leisure products, Supply & fitting of Powrtouch, Truma & Purpleline caravan motor movers at your premises. neleisure at sky.com or visit www.neleisureproducts.co.uk
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  Quote Brill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2005 at 19:34
Thanks for your help guys, as a new user of the site it is reassuring to know that there are people out there willing to take the time to help others. Couple of questions though, what should the torque setting be?, and with regard to 'paint' on the tow ball, do you mean the silver finish that the tow ball has on it?, coz if that is the case then I am guilty of not removing it, & in which case what should I do now?
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  Quote dionea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 July 2005 at 20:39
If its paint & not just a shiny steel ball(cos alco balls usually come in black paint)you could try 300 or so grade wet or dry paper to remove it from the pads, a file is a bit harsh. then clean them with brake cleaner.
I am not sure what torque settings you or jonny are refering too, the only torque settings that i know of on a hitch head are the 2, 17mm bolts that mount it onto the hitch tube,
They are set at 85nm's (newton metres) but u dont want, or need to remove the hitch from the tube just to clean or change the pads.
U dont even have to remove the pads just to clean them simply emery paper them in situ.
If u try to remove the hitch head, remember the rear bolt holds the gas ram in place and unless u knock out the bolt with the special piece of steel rod for the job, its going to be hell to get back in.
N.E leisure products, Supply & fitting of Powrtouch, Truma & Purpleline caravan motor movers at your premises. neleisure at sky.com or visit www.neleisureproducts.co.uk
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Brill View Drop Down
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  Quote Brill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2005 at 19:35
Thanks again, it is not actually an Alko tow ball, as the guy at Swindon Caravans said that I did not need one with this type of Alko hitch!. The tow ball was silver in colour when I fitted it, but I have noticed that the silver coating has come off in places since using it. I presume that this is the paint that you are referring to, so I will try cleaning the pads and see what happens. Thanks again for your help.
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  Quote driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 July 2005 at 07:28

Hi Brill,

How old is your Lunar?

Is the stabiliser separate from the hitchehead? ie. does it have a blade that you put onto your car separately?

If it doesn't and your stabiliser is on the hitchhead of your caravan then you need a hardened steel towball and not an ordinary one.

If it is the blade type we used to torque it up to about 60lbs.

The hitchehead type of stabiliser you wouldn't have to torque.

 

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  Quote dionea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2005 at 19:28
A hardened steel towball is a new one on me, Iv'e never come across that one before.
The reason you have to change towballs is a longer neck on the towball, as on an ordinary one, the hitch head hits the bend before it fully engages the ball.
N.E leisure products, Supply & fitting of Powrtouch, Truma & Purpleline caravan motor movers at your premises. neleisure at sky.com or visit www.neleisureproducts.co.uk
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Brill View Drop Down
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  Quote Brill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2005 at 20:24

Hi guys, confused I am. In answer to driver, my Lunar is a 1998, and the Alko is attached to the drawbar. In answer to dionea, what you say concurs with what the guy from Swindon caravans told me, but does the fact that the silver seems to have worn off of the tow ball in places mean that it is paint?.

Thanks, Brill

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  Quote dionea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2005 at 08:17
Yes if it's worn off its paint.
That will have contaminated the pads & will have to be removed, or the pads won't grip the ball fully, so u wont have an anti skate capability anymore. (At least not fully)
I cant understand why the burk, sorry bloke, at swindon, sold u an ordinary ball when its safer to sell u a proper one,
I dont care whether you've got an aks 1300, 2004, 3004, 2700, or winterhoff they all as far as i'm concerned need an extended neck towball. (thats what iv'e been taught, so thats the advice i give).
Even if you can locate the ball into the socket, there are times, like going round corners, or the car hitting a pothole and dropping down on one side, so as to tilt at different angles to the van, that could make the hitch hit the bend of the ball.
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  Quote driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2005 at 08:29

Hi

When we bought our latest van new 2 years ago it had the alko stabiliser on. These stabiliser come complete with new towball - which is hardened steel. If you just used the ordinary cast type it would wear away with the grip of the stabiliser. These towballs to buy cost approx £25-£30 as compared to the cost of an ordinary towball - approx £5.

I don't think it is the silver paint that is wearing off - the towballs are painted black and it is probably that that is wearing off allowing the steel - silver - to show through. As far as I am aware there shouldn't be a problem with this contaminating the pads - ours certainly hasn't been impaired by it.

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  Quote dionea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2005 at 08:40
the laws of physics says that when 2 objects rub together the softest one will wear away, which is softer the ball or the pads.
It also says that when u get specially made balls, all the way from south africa, they are going to cost u more.
it also says, when u absolutely need that ball & cant live without it, the manufacturers are going to rob u blind, then when u can't see, they are coming back for the sockets.
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  Quote dionea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2005 at 08:57
Also take a look at the bottom part of the ball (not the ball or neck) is it bubbly or rough, its a sure sign that it is cast iron & as far as i know, cast iron can't be hardened.
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  Quote klaatu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2005 at 23:10
Surely tow balls are FORGED STEEL - not "cast iron"???
"There are several ways to make a landing....first, you have to overcome the inertia....."
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  Quote dionea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2005 at 18:57
I really dont know now, u lot have me totally confused, is it forged cast or hardened, its all getting too technical for me, its a towball for christs sake, who gives a watsit what the hell it is as long as it works.
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  Quote mickngill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 August 2005 at 22:17

Hi,

I would expect the towball to be forged rather than cast (stronger tensile strength). I would also expect a "hardened" ball to be hard all the way thro' and not just case hardened.

the friction material will be softer than the ball (its similar material to brake pads- works on same principal) but wear will occur on the ball due to localised operation of the friction pads.

there used to be 2 types of ball, std silver and gold. the gold type were primarily for "type-approved" tow bars.

Maybe its just me ( or the fact we have an older van) but we prefer the blade type of stabiliser. Tho' not as easy to use as a hitch-head type, i've seen a lot of "tail wagging" vans attached by the alko/winterhoff. something we dont tend to see with vans using the blade type. Might have something to do with a larger friction surface. Pitching doesn't seem as bad either. Just our opinion, of course.

Try the practical caravan site. they maybe able to shed more light on towball types recommended for alko/winterhoff stabilisers.

 

 

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  Quote Brill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2005 at 13:40

Hi Guys

Many thanks for all your help, it was indeed the Alko stabiliser hitch that was the problem. I proved this by towing the van with the stabiliser not set and it was as quiet as a mouse, set the stabiliser and sure enough the creaking was back, cleaned the pads with some emery, and it is as good as new.

Thanks again for all your advice

Brill

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  Quote lebesset Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 August 2005 at 06:10
NOW I remember why I bought my double axle tabbert
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  Quote John I. Stephen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 August 2005 at 15:03

we bought our Bailey Senator Oklahoma 3 weeks ago and this last weekend was our first 'adventure'. After 30 mins drving we heard creaking noises each time we went round a bend. It was LOUD and it was nerve wracking because it suggested that the caravan was about to part company with our car !!!

I believe that the problem is that the coupling pads have become contaminated with grease and grime from my diesel engin estate car.

Hopefully new pads will sort the problem; + thorough cleaning of the tow ball before each departure.

 

John I. Stephen
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  Quote Brill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 August 2005 at 19:42

Yes you're right, the sound from the stabiliser hitch is very worrying when you don't know what it is, at least once you have heard it and have diagnosed the problem, next time you hear it , it won't be so bad. When we took delivery of our Clubman in March of this year the dispatch guy at the caravan dealers degreased the tow ball on my car, following which we had two holidays in Devon, and got to Dorset with no problems, it was only coming back from our last holiday that the horrible noise began.

I have never put any grease on the tow ball since it was degreased, and I purchased a brand new tow hitch cover at the time to make sure that there was no contamination from the previous cover. Guess what, after the recommendations of our fellow members I cleaned the pads in the stabilizer with some solvent degreaser, they were filthy!, I also cleaned the tow ball, and yes that was filthy too. I am starting to wonder if the problem is not being caused at the caravan dealers, as we had to return our caravan for some warranty work after we bought it. Our previous caravan had a tow hitch which required the tow ball to be greased, and I have never noticed the guy at the caravan dealer degreasing the tow ball on his buggy before hitching up to another caravan, stabilizer hitch or not!.

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  Quote dionea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 August 2005 at 14:39
Well brill i wont disagree with u on that one, it is sometimes forgetfullness on behalf of the guy who moves the vans around, or a new guy who hasnt been informed about cleaning his ball.
Mind u I did a s/hand p.d.i on a van last week & the previous owner musn't have known about not greasing his hitch, it was thick with grease & couldn't possibly have ever worked as a stabiliser for him.
I decided to do a test on the old pads, i washed them with Worth brake cleaner, then emeried them with 3oo grit paper, washed them again, thoroughly cleaned out the hitch head, then refitted the pads.
I put a clean ball in and they worked as a stabiliser again, no one could turn the ball at all, the best anyone could do was to tilt it side to side.(with lots of effort)
Of course i still changed them, but for anyone who has to pay for his bits, well ?????????? the decision is theirs.
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  Quote stephen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 September 2005 at 10:58

HI MATE I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AT THE WEEKEND AND THE PROBLEM WAS

 THE TOW BALL ON THE CAR WAS WRONG YOU NEED THE ALKO TOW BALL WHICH IS DEEPER THAN THE STANDERD ONE IT COST ME £22.00 FROM CARAVAN SHOP LET ME KNOW IF PROB IS CURED

 STEVE

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  Quote Brill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 October 2005 at 20:50

Hi Steve

No, the problem was not caused by the type of tow ball, you only need the swan neck Alko one with the later stabiliser hitch which has a large handle to operate the stabiliser, which could foul the bumper of the car ( I'm sure that someone will correct me if I am wrong!). The problem was simply contamination of the stabiliser pads from sources unknown. I have cleaned my tow ball with component degreaser (brake cleaner to those 'in the know'), I have also cleaned the stabiliser pads with the same, and abraded them with emery cloth, and guess what, perfect!. Untill that is our homeward journey when the creaking started again. However, knowing what the noise was, and also that it didn't mean that the caravan was about to part company with the car, it was not so concerning as the first time I heard it.

I have never greased the tow ball on my vehicle ( I fitted a new tow ball when I purchased the vehicle as the one already fitted was U/S), I also bought a new cover to ensure that there was no chance of contamination. Unlike a previous respondent, my car is a petrol vehicle, so I do not believe the contamination has come from there. So where the contamination comes from will it seems remain a mystery (a bit like how Father Christmas gets down your chimney when you haven't got one!). So I guess at the end of the day, all caravanners with stabiliser hitches are cursed to be forever cleaning their balls and pads so to speak.

Regards to all

Brill

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  Quote driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 October 2005 at 07:02

Hi

If you don't need to change your ball why do these stabilisers come supplied with a new one that is longer and made from hardened steel!!!!!

As for contamination - we've used ours for 2 years and towed about 4000 miles and we've never heard any noise from it at all. The same could not be said for our old spring leaf one - that never shut up.

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  Quote klaatu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 October 2005 at 07:52

Are we all (or at least, some of us) missing the point here? I am not an active tow-er, but likely this will affect me next year, so I am on a learning curve.

Ignoring the fact that the genuine Alko ball has an extended neck, is it significant that there is a machined chamfer or recess at the base of the ball area and that this is necessary for the coupling to engage???

There is a 'standard' height ball available - ie. without the long neck but with the machined recess - as a non-genuine, 'Alko-type' accessory shop part

The Alko coupling is now standard on many new and up-spec caras, it has been developed due to the car manufacturers' styling where flush, expensive back bumpers are concerned to give a detchable - or swan neck - hideaway coupling without the clamp-on bracket necessary for the leaf spring type

My understanding is that - on rough ground - the bulky Alko hitch head could jam on the base of a standard height ball if the van pitches against the motion of the unit, hence the extra clearance provided by the long neck

Keep up the comments, all appreciated!

 

 

 

 

 

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  Quote dionea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 October 2005 at 17:46
Spot on klaatu, the alco ball has a longer neck for that reason. i dont know why the machined neck maybe to make it pretty or to remove rough surface. ???
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